The economy continues to move in the right direction, and there are no signs of civil unrest. With stability comes infrastructure, and with infrastructure come tourists - Cambodia attracted in the region of two million tourists last year. Just a few years back it was roughly half that. So it seems that people not only feel that it's safe to come here, but that they want to see Cambodia - the real Cambodia.

If you want to see the country these days it's a breeze compared to ten years ago, or even five. Before, intrepid explorers used buffalo, a horse and cart or, God forbid, their own two feet, and there were few cars to be seen in the capital city, let alone the provincial areas. A few years back, and arguably still today, the off road dirt bike was the way to get to see the outskirts of town, the mountain terrain, or the rarely seen temples. Now, with a mostly paved national road system, the choice is yours - not only what you want to see, but also how you want to see it.

The most common, least expensive way to get to a location is with one of the many bus companies that run throughout the country, but they'll basically only get you from one town to the other, with little in between. You can also hire a taxi, which will get you to the same places in a quicker manner, although I'd recommend wearing your seatbelt and a diaper (and perhaps a blindfold), especially if you opt for a shared ride - don't be surprised if there's an extra passenger shoehorned between the driver and his door, for example.

Unless of course you want to take a tour. Now I'm not talking about 150 people stuffed into a bus reeking of patchouli oil and God knows what else, I'm talking about an adventure. While you could sit around at Cali 2 or any one of the myriad bars by the riverside, and listen to a plethora of bike riders who have been and seen things others only dream of, you could instead opt to get out and see it all for yourself.

First is the dirtbike tour, of which there are many types available, from a gentle two-day cruise on graded dirt through to a hard-core, ten-day challenge that will leave all but the fittest and most experienced riders struggling to keep up. Several companies offer tours, usually departing from Phnom Penh, and can usually provide bikes, helmets and so on if required. Red Raid Tours, operating out of the Bike Shop on Street 302, is Western-run and has a wide range of options available - just call and ask to speak to Bernard.

Instead of dirt in your teeth, bruised ego and genitalia, or even a flight out of here if things go badly wrong, how about a little comfort instead? Harley Cambodia is a new set-up that allows the rider to cruise around the country on one of four different road hogs. With the option of five different tours (at the time of writing), or a customised itinerary to fit your wallet or time frame, the rider can see almost any part of the land with a guide, a backup for safety, and accommodation pre-booked. No hassles, just comfort.

A less conventional method is by air. Ultralights can and will get you to pretty much any part of the country you desire. Swooping across Oudong, buzzing the trees of the Cardamom mountains, or even a simple river run, will certainly give you a rush, and an experience that won't soon be forgotten. These sturdy craft operate just outside of Phnom Penh (about 16km past the airport) and, like other aircraft, have to consider the weather when making plans, so keep this in mind when booking a trip (strong winds are not a good match).