Yes, their burlier, 4 wheeled big brothers, the tuk tuk and taxi, have arrived in Phnom Penh. In this country, taxis are usually small individually owned enterprises and are not as plentiful or even necessary as in a larger metro area like Bangkok or Ho Chi Minh. But like Thailand and Vietnam, which also have established taxi companies similar to those in the west, the tuk tuk has taken up much of the slack by providing a similar service within the smaller confines of their cities.

Although not much of an argument (the winning side should be obvious to anyone who has had to endure rush hour traffic), it has been argued that Phnom Penh or Siem Reap lack the infrastructure to support a large number of cars. As I continue to see the accumulating plaque of SUV’s and Camrys clogging the arteries of the town, the tuk tuk is not a bad compromise between the moto and the fat cat vehicle for which there is no longer any room.

Unlike the traditional tuk tuk of Thailand and India which is a more or less enclosed single vehicle on three wheels, the Cambodian flavor is more of a trailer, secured, ahem, to a dodgy-looking hitch bolted onto a moto’s back seat. The apparatus (a metal knuckle about as big as a family-size can of kidney beans and located about an inch behind the driver’s third lumbar vertebra) looks like a grim recipe for instant paraplegia should a speeding Camry ram into the back of the hapless driver’s contraption.

Like the taxi, it can carry four Western passengers in relative comfort, if not relative speed, or the members of up to three extended Khmer families. And unlike the moto it can carry a considerable amount of cargo, useful for moving or the late night eviction of a drunk and wild-eyed scissor-wielding loved one. They are also everywhere, easily beckoned with a casual wave unless you are like me when, like the cops, they seem to be unavailable when you really need one.

Then there is course the weather issue. During the rainy season the tuk tuk will reap the lion’s share of business over the moto. Indeed, even on a nice day, it’s pleasant to sit in the comfort of the shade and take in the passing view of egg hawkers and book sellers. After this the tuk tuk begins to lose steam. Nearly as wide as a car, it suffers from the same congestion that dooms its larger brethren and soon becomes just as stuck in the mass of metal-clad humanity that is rush hour. Beyond 15km it also starts to have problems with range and speed en-route - expect to get passed on the highway by small motos and durian haulers. A tourist fresh off the boat once asked with a perfectly straight face: “how much to go to Sihanoukville?” I should also mention it was night time.

So in the end, they’re not bad for getting around. At about $2 for a short trip or $12 for a half day or 50km, it’s a little cheaper than a taxi but definitely more, uh, fun. And with their predictable movements and constant speed they are probably safer than motos, at least for the passengers. The view is great, second only to a moto, and you can take in the sights and smells in relative protection from the elements. Also, you won’t be contributing so much to the problem of cars in the kingdom causing gridlock. So next time asked, just offer the standard Asian reply… up to you.