Apartments or Hotels and Guesthouses. Short or long term.

February 2009

Clive Graham-Ranger

Getting away from it all is less of an excuse and more of a reason why so many escape the heat and dust of the capital
One’s The Way To Go
Some roads have a magic all their own, such as Route 66. But you don’t need a fancy name and a song to represent people’s great escape

Highway 1 has bittersweet memories for most Khmers over a certain age. It was one of the main roads that foreshadowed the death knell of a generation at the hands of the Khmer Rouge. Several years later more armour crossed from Vietnam, drove the KR into the jungle and introduced the Cambodian people to another form of repression.
Today it is choked with trucks belching black smoke, overcrowded with cross-border buses and thousands of motos carrying everything from people and dead pigs to wedding dresses. Thankfully it also offers a handful of welcome boltholes away from the pollution, smell and noise of the city if you’re looking for somewhere to chill out for a few days and soak up some rays or spend a few hours in isolated splendour.
L’imprévu, 7km up Highway 1 after the Monivong Bridge, is one such oasis of calm and relaxation. Jacques Bayot and Norbert Delor took on the resort last December and have embarked on renovating it from building a new, open-air kitchen and redecorating its colourful and welcoming bungalows to creating a kiddies’ paddling area adjacent to the main swimming pool. Screening by established stands of trees and undergrowth means that the noise from one of the busiest roads in the province is not particularly obtrusive, despite its closeness. For such a welcome bolthole, abject minimalism seems to be the key message the joint owners seem to want to convey to existing and prospective customers, which is all very Gallic
Delor is an established artist whose work is not only on show in a Parisian gallery but also adorns several walls in the resort’s main bar and dining room. Bayot appears to be the culinary half of the management team, which is reflected in the large portions and extensive menu that offers lashings of pommes frites as well as excellent club sandwiches, roast chicken, lok lak and a host of other European and Khmer favourites alongside deep-fried fish from about $5-$10 and up. But check the salt and pepper pots before sprinkling, your taste buds could come in for a quite unwelcome surprise when brown should be white and fair takes your breath away.
There are several other places to stay along the length of Highway 1 within the bounds of Phnom Penh, but during my recce two quite palatial-looking buildings called K2 guesthouse and L’Eléphant Blanc resort were closed for refurbishment. The latter establishment advertised itself as being a mere “7km from the Monivong bridge” and boasted French and Khmer cuisine for the sophisticated palate. Quite a deal when the owners were asking only about $30 a night for two people sharing a cabin with breakfast thrown in and a swimming pool on the doorstep, so to speak. We will keep an eye on these developments, because from outward appearances through bolted gates and shuttered metal fencing we expect great and luxurious things . . . as perhaps do the owners and developers. There are also some quite mysterious places advertised on the roadside that do not throw out the welcome mat when you want to see the rooms. One, which shall remain nameless, had guard dogs down the driveway. Another, Mean Hong, though had a guard who was happy to show me around the pleasantly designed and nicely furnished bedrooms that were on offer for $5 for one or two hours. The afternoon delights could also be accompanied by roast chicken ($9) and deep-fried fish ($7) . . . plus a shuttered garage for your car to keep it out of the sun.

As most of you have noticed, except those considered by the governing authorities to be superior to the rest of us, Phnom Penh is once again facing its darkest hours as its resources of energy are pushed to the limit. To be fair, we were warned during the rainy season last year that during the hottest months of 2008 there would be rolling blackouts and power cuts.
The explanation given was that Phnom Penh is expanding too quickly and during the driest months the hydroelectric power plant, which relies mostly on rainfall, wouldn’t even be able to reach half its normal production capacity in the months when the sky is clear and bright.
I like to think that my former neighbour’s obsession with air conditioning, due to the fact he’s in the aircon business and just loves putting one on each blank length of wall, may also have something to do with our lack of power, but that is just plain jealousy. During the hottest months, air-conditioning usage is a lot higher than normal, especially as the middle class is out there spending more and more on electrical appliances than before.
Turning off all your electrical appliances when you leave the house or using one instead of three appliances in your home will contribute to conserving energy and prevent power cuts. If everyone were to turn off unused lights, computers, air conditioners, fans etc . . . the total amount of energy saved could potentially keep the power on regularly instead of it fluctuating between on and off.
Starting from noon, when the sun shines equally on all things from the middle of the sky, the use of fans and air conditioning increases rapidly, putting a serious strain on the city’s pensionable power plants.
Electrical failures have been a regular occurrence in Phnom Penh since liberation in 1979, when the power grid was partly restored and people flooded back into the city. So long-term residents are never caught without a bundle of candles as back-up when the power goes off. A dozen should cost you no more than about $1.50 or 6,000 riel. Small electric fluorescent lamps also come in handy, just so long as you remember to charge them for a few hours when the power supply returns.
Generators are relatively easy to come by, although I would suggest asking or paying a Khmer friend to buy one for you. There are many shops around the Central Market that sell generators of all shapes and sizes, ranging in price from $100 to tens of thousands if you want to keep your street or your landed estate in light. If you live a long way from the city, most out-of-town markets will sell generators, but the choice will be severely limited compared with Phnom Penh.
Some areas of the city will lose power more often than others due to the importance of individuals in the vicinity, a new power line or a lack of large businesses. If you find that your power seems to go off regularly for short periods and you don’t want to stay at home, go to the nearest Khmer barbecue restaurant and enjoy a cooling drink while you wait.
Last year, when the blackouts brought the city to a halt there was a rush of small Khmer businesses buying generators to ensure non-stop trade and banks of cooling fans. So rather than be in the dark, invest a few dollars in the drink of your choice and sit by a fan at your nearest barbecue restaurant.

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Feb 2008

Luke Young

So you just moved to Phnom Penh, or decided to stay and find an apartment to call home.
The Crib Crawl
Navigating the Phnom Penh real estate market can be a challenge.

If you’re a teacher, a budding entrepreneur or work for a local NGO you may have a limited amount of money to budget for an apartment, but don’t fret - Phnom Penh by most measures still has an affordable housing market
If you are on a tight budget explore areas further from the riverside where there are bargains to be had. I was lucky enough to have a network of Khmer friends who were more than happy to help me. As a matter of fact they wouldn’t leave me alone, hoping to help me find a place and receive a commission in the process. I was shown several places near the riverside for $200 a month, but decided after viewing several poorly lit options located down dark alleyways to settle for a large furnished apartment near the Russian Embassy for the princely sum of $150 per month. It was furnished, with a balcony, plenty of light, a roof deck and even a place to store my motorbike.
Word of mouth is a great option, so try to enlist the assistance of friends or co-workers, who may know of a nice place in your price range that just opened up. Prepare to negotiate too, though many Khmer landlords are looking for a fixed price depending on the market and demand. Negotiating is a challenge, and many won’t budge on the price, but it helps to being a Khmer friend along with you to help with the negotiation and to act as a translator. Make sure that all the necessary repairs are agreed upon before you sign your lease, and be aware that you may have to pay for any additional construction costs, such as the installation of air conditioning units, or changes to the structure of the apartment. Most landlords are willing to work with you and give you a fair price.
My friend Kich recently moved back to Phnom Penh. Needing to find a place near his work, he enlisted the help of a local real estate agent. Many cater to foreigners and will work within your budget and specific needs. “I walked into the office and the agent remembered me,” he said. He was shown a variety of places in his price range and settled on a furnished apartment near the Royal Palace for $230 a month. “Agents consider the needs of foreigners,” he said, from higher ceilings to furniture, and in some cases utensils, washing machines, and cleaning services included.
Utilities? Expect to pay between $30 and $50 a month for electricity depending on the season, or about 700 to 1000 per KWh of usage, and water should run around 15 percent of your total utility bill. You can ask your landlord to view a previous bill, and it is best to have easy access to your own meter. Cable television will run you about $5 per month, and there are now moderately priced internet services available.
Security is another important issue. A well-lit apartment with easy street access is ideal, especially for women living alone. Kich’s apartment has a double locked entryway, gated windows, and privacy curtains on his balcony. And if you have your own motorbike, look for a place where you can store it a night. And before you sign the lease, visit the place in the evening and take a look around. If you have concerns regarding your personal safety outside of your apartment you may want to consider something on a busier street. Phnom Penh is relatively safe at night and most residents go to bed early, but as with any city it pays to take sensible precautions.