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What's On! In Phnom Penh Dining has never been so easy! Or had so much choice in Phnom Penh |
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PHNOMPENHRESTAURANTREVIEWS
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GARDEN CENTER CAFE
Clive Graham-Ranger A gentle, worldly wise Scot, Bob Cumiskey recently moved one of his popular restaurants to St 108, and what a transformation. Gone are the plastic chairs, metal tables and greenhouse tentacles of yesteryear. Seven aircraft propeller-sized ceiling fans stir the air above the comfortably upholstered chairs and glass-topped tables. Moving away from his green period, Cumiskey’s collection of film and travel memorabilia is enviable eye candy. The food’s good too. It’s not all veggie and green, although the spinach and cheese pie ($4.50) is not to be missed and the mango salsa salad ($2.50) tastes just right. There are burgers for the meat and a bun set ($3 and up), Mexican ($3.60-$6) for those who like it spicy and wholesome fish dishes from salmon ($7.50 and up) to fish’n’chips (up to $5.50). The puddings are lip-smackingly good and there’s a comprehensive wine, beer and soft drinks list. |
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OCEAN RESTAURANT
Clive Graham-Ranger “Mediterranean” covers a lot of territory in culinary terms, but for Herbert Ludwikowski it rightly means seafood at his intimate restaurant in NGOland. On St 288, the airy eatery has a European minimalist feel, which reflects Ludwikowki’s German roots. The food, though, is far from Teutonic both in quantity and quality. A campari and soda or mojito is a good way to freshen the palate before diving into the starters, which range from cucumber soup to the ever-popular gazpacho. Ocean’s shrimp matador (in a garlic and chilli-laced white wine and tomato sauce) is a treat as is the unusual but rewarding fish carpaccio. The mains are also there to titillate the taste buds with a fresh tuna steak at $10 and red snapper at $9. The wine list is comprehensive, but the most popular choice among Ocean’s mainly barang clientele is the house sauvignon blanc, which needless to say goes so well with the fish. |
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RISING SUN
Clive Graham-Ranger It’s one of the best hangover cures in Phnom Penh: a “greasy spoon” escape from the headache and nausea that lingers after “the night before”. It’s a Rising Sun breakfast ($7 for the full monty with a side order of bloody mary). Long regarded as the place to be seen with blurred vision in the morning, Clive Scott’s apocalyptic venue at St 178 doesn’t serve napalm but does offer giant helpings of British food on seven weekday menus at from $3.50 to $5, omelettes with toast at $2.50 and $3.50 and a Sunday lunch menu (beef, pork or chicken) your mother would approve of. The walls are hung with black-and-white pictures from the history of television, film (with an Apocalypse Now overtone) and pop music. Although they reflect a “best of entertainment” time warp, the service is up-to-the-minute good. Hours after you’ve eaten and agreed to the hair of the dog, your gastric apocalypse will be a dim memory. |
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VAN'S RESTAURANT
Clive Graham-Ranger An extra special night out, a moment of splash-it-about madness or just a desire to satisfy your sybaritic side. This is definitely the place and even after paying a bill of more than $100, I am still of the same mind. It’s L’Escargot in London’s Soho, La Coupole in Paris, Dan Tana’s in Beverly Hills; a place of fine dining, unhurried but attentive service and classic wines served in a cathedral of excellence. The aperitif: chilled champagne with a dash of kir. The food: lobster bisque, carré d’agneau and lemon sorbet. The wine: a château-bottled red from Bordeaux. In Phnom Penh I am told this is high-living territory; in London such a meal at £52 for two is a bargain guaranteeing the place would be packed to the rafters. Run by a trio of directors, one of them an elegant woman named Van Porleng, and a grinning chef, Van’s has every chance of earning a waiting list. Book now to avoid disappointment. |
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