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A Match Made In Heaven

3/1/2008
As novelist Bernard DeVoto once said "You can no more keep a Martini in the refrigerator than you can keep a kiss there. The proper union of gin and vermouth is one of the happiest marriages on earth, and one of the shortest lived."

Oh such wisdom.... A martini is an abso¬lute work of craftsmanship and is surpris¬ingly more difficult to make than one might think, considering there are only three ingredients: gin, vermouth and ice. As soon as I moved to Siem Reap I set about finding myself a bartender that could do this marriage justice... and I was in luck.

My companion for the evening was an expert in all things alcoholic, and thus suitably qualified to try all the other cocktails on offer during the happiest of times... "Happy Hour". Yes, this is the time when those on the even the strictest of budgets can enjoy the elegance and old world charm of the most luxurious hotels that Siem Reap has to offer. Our first stop was the Naga Bar, a natural choice given its close proximity to the temples. Located in Le Meridien Angkor, it is certainly a sophisticated venue with its glass facade, baby grand piano and extensive menu. The view was so enticing that with cocktails in hand we chose to take a stroll through the hotel's lush gardens.

Warmed by my first martini and thrilled by the thought of more, we decided to ‘dah-ling’ (walk) to our next port of call… the Sofitel Royal Angkor. Passing the Kantha Bopha children’s hospital, we noted the advertisement for the free cello concert each Saturday night (a perfect way to recover from an indulgent evening of happy hour fun?) before arriving at Wayfarers, an English-style pub bar with a long happy hour. The delicious (and at $5 relatively cheap) pizzas proved irresistible and helped to prolong our sobriety long enough to get us to our next engagement.

Walking south along Vithei Charles De Gaulle we were struck by the bright white exterior of Siem Reap’s newest boutique hotel, the Tara Angkor. Curiosity piqued, so we crossed over to investigate their offerings, purely for journalistic research of course. Presently they don’t have a happy hour, but the bar in the lobby is clean and spacious and has a decent menu, so we’ll be sure to return another day. Next, we opted to explore the famous Elephant Bar at the Grand Hotel. It immediately evoked images of safari suits and smoking jackets, so it seemed only appropriate that my cocktail of choice is the martini (shaken with a twist), and I get two for the price of one. Intoxicated by the colonial charm of the bar (or is it the gin?) I perused the impressive menu of cigars whilst imagining myself as the glamorous heroine in a fifties Hollywood film.

Nuptials renewed, we headed south through the beautifully manicured Royal Gardens, past the King’s local digs to the (in)famous FCC Angkor. The boutique hotel occupies a prime location with picturesque views over the river. Sister to the famous FCC in Phnom Penh, we chose to relax at a table on the outdoor patio and indulge in their signature cocktail, the Correspondent’s Feast. Nibbling on freshly roasted complimentary cashews and peanuts, still warm from the pan, we contemplated our night of five star indulgence on a two star budget. Life is good in old Siem Reap town.

With happy hour drawing to a close, and having heard whispers from local expatriates of the best ‘Long Island iced tea’ this side of Manhattan, we hailed a tuk-tuk and make a beeline for The Warehouse, the perfect place from which to plan our late night assault on the adjacent Pub Street to celebrate a marriage made in heaven.

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