Whether alone or in groups, they are an ever-present sight and are highly revered in Khmer society. Cambodians are mostly Therevada Buddhists and the monks often serve as village teachers and counselors. In Cambodia, most villages have a Wat (temple) that is the centre of village life, and if you have a Khmer partner or Khmer friends there will certainly come a time when you will be asked to attend a Wat with them.
Cambodians will go to the Wat for many reasons; not just on religious holidays. For a small donation such as a packet of cigarettes or a bag of rice you can have your mobile phone, your watch, your jewellery, your motor¬bike or even your car blessed. You can have your wedding date chosen for you, your financial problems solved and your health issues sorted out. You can even indulge in a washing ceremony that will leave you drenched and smiling.
So if you're thinking of partaking, here are a few tips to ensure you carry yourself with aplomb when you first find yourself entering a Wat or interacting with a monk:
- First and foremost, shoes or sandals must be removed before entering a Wat. Even the King does this so yes, it applies to you too.
- Visitors should be appropriately attired (this especially applies at Angkor Wat as, in case you had forgotten, it is a temple - shorts and singlets are definitely not appropriate dress even if it's hot!) Men should wear shirts and pants and women should not wear short skirts or open dresses that reveal the body.
- Inside the Wat, you should sit on the floor with legs bent and both feet tucked to the side, and then Som Pa and bow to the floor three times.
- Women should NEVER touch a monk. If a woman wants to hand something to a monk, she should place it within reach of the monk rather than hand it directly to him
- Monks generally sit on a platform or raised seat. However, if there is no such option available, they are also allowed to sit on the floor or mat, though they must sit upon a pillow or folded blanket to symbolise a higher seating
- Visitors must always sit with their legs bent and feet tucked backward when the monks are seated
- Never stand when talking to seated monks, as it shows grave disrespect. Never touch a Buddha statue or stand on the altar, for the same reasons
- A monk can be addressed with “Venerable” followed by his first name or whole name (last and first), and you can also call him Ganna. If you wish to give alms when the monks approach shops and businesses in the mornings, simple remove your shoes and som pa to your forehead three times whilst saying “ganna som twai bong khum”. He will then utter some blessings briefly and you can then back away respectfully
One of the things that may well amuse you is the casual nature of a visit to the Wat. You would think that it would be very hushed and solemn but in actual fact it is very relaxed. The monk will chat away with you as he gets to know you, while people’s mobile phones are ringing away and jokes are being made all around. Once, a monk I was sitting in front of even stopped to have a cigarette break while sitting on the dais. A visit to the Wat is a good way to see Khmer people practicing their faith and interacting with the monks and there are many in and around Siem Reap to choose from.